Manufacturing shoes tips-THREE

25. After molding (lasting or into last) arising vamp skew, comprises the following reasons:

One, shoe parts:

1) due to last bottom (in the end) and the length of the centerline of each other to form the angle too line (typically 5 degrees or less) and reached last body askew, causing the outside of the area of ​​the body lasts too different, not easy to make the right lasting .

2) about the last difference.

Second, the model parts:

1) The model itself is obviously skewed (or bonding lines are not coordinated at the shoe).

2) sample error is likely to cause warpage and footwear front wall portion skewed.

3) a model of the angle and the curvature of the line followed by an error, causing heel midline skewed.

4) inside and vamp-like model with anti-error, to work hard to make pasting caused.

5), the outer bonding line errors.

6) template general poor (hand-cut, drawing a line in radians, Kennedy fold, etc.) ……

Third, the noodle part:

A) major skin graft cut and (or) Flap bad.

2) engaging sewn bad.

3) posted in distorting or skew.

4) Choice of leather cut in the wrong direction.

5) have not been paired elect president (inner and outer skin graft elongation different).

6) decorative line decorative sewing and assembly errors piece (flower) is not correct.

Four, forming part of (or into the last knot help):

1) “three-point” error or machine to help end before the gang of “clamping point” error.

2) left and right foot and shoe uppers mistake (with the right shoe uppers left or right with the left shoe uppers).

3) shoe uppers (SIZE) and shoe last match.

4) placed after the bad plastic lining and heel.

5) can be easily amended skew correction did not pay attention.

6) clamp to help position errors.

26. Molding, vamp best first softened to facilitate lasting; uppers softening way around can be satisfied that the three kinds of (1) heating method: mostly for artificial leather (PVC and PU) and to man-made uppers made from Inside of leather for uppers; (2) steamed soft law: only applies to natural leather (refer mammal skins) made the vamp. It is the use of water by heating steam will soften the leather derived; (3) solvent coating: the steam softens the same applies only made from natural leather uppers, the earliest handmade shoe uppers softening method; natural skin humidification that will soften the features, but generally softened water is likely to cause stains water marks printed, but also because the relationship between the slow evaporation of water, it may hinder follow-up system with the bottom, so although water softening effect can be achieved, a large Most still use the faster evaporation “alcohol” as a solvent to soften uppers.

27. Molding, in addition to first soften the vamp to facilitate lasting, but more should be softened before lining, usually the front lining softening in three ways, (1) flooding softening; This method is based on the object softened cowhide leather midsole as before lining material, but also when formerly handmade shoes before lining softening  (2) Soak solvent (toluene) softening; soften object of this method as “Hong Kong treasure” as a lining material before use, “the Hong Kong treasure “dip solvent to soften the way in recent years, one of the footwear revolutionary shoe. Which features are soaking solvent which is very soft, the most favorable molding footwear, without adding any processing or strengthening, stiffness after drying effect can be attained, the shoe industry using more softening means; (3) heat-softening method: the use heating (about 100 degrees -120 degrees) way to make pre-set pressure in front of the shoe lining position of the “hot melt” soften, to facilitate lasting shape, if not make too big toe stiffness requirements, this method is the most simple , clean, and most conducive to toe lasting way to soften the front lining.

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